So far, our Ireland posts have been packed with incredible scenery however this week things take a more contemplative and interesting turn. We head into Northern Ireland and the town of Derry/Londonderry to learn more about the tensions that have long dominated this area.
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Discovering Derry
Derry was our first foray into Northern Ireland! It’s a charming and safe city without a ton of “must-see” sights but that is enjoyable to walk around.
One of the first things we learned in Derry was a tell that locals use to determine whether someone is Catholic or Protestant. Catholics/Irish Nationalists refer to this city as Derry, whereas Protestants/UK Loyalists call it Londonderry. While we’re not Catholic, Natty Guy and I took to calling it Derry as it’s less of a mouthful. 
Walls of Resilience
The two best things you can do while in Derry are to walk the city walls and take a guided tour of the city murals. We toured with Neil McLaughlin and had an unforgettable experience.
As we toured the Bogside (an area outside the city walls where Protestants forced the Catholics to live), we learned about the Troubles and the Bloody Sunday massacre. Neil told us about Annette McGavigan, a 14-year-old school girl, killed by gunfire with an ice cream cone still in her hands. We learned of Bobby Sands’ hunger strike and how he was elected to Parliament during that time.
We met a fellow tour guide/friend of Neil and later learned that his father had been shot by UK forces. Neil, himself, nearly missed being shot after leaving a group of friends to visit his grandmother nearby. The two friends were both hit less than an hour later. Neil also pointed out scaffolding along one section of the town wall to “protect the Orange Men (Protestant) boy’s school” from pipe bombs, etc.
The violence of political discord all feels so palpable in Derry. And the recency is shocking. I can remember what I was doing during the years listed as death dates on young people’s memorials. It feels especially poignant as we see our own country devolving to ever greater stances of violence. But the resilience of Derry’s citizens gives hope and inspiration.
Where to Stay
We had a wonderful stay at the Bishop’s Gate Hotel. This cozy gem is located inside the city walls and has parking available. We loved everything about our stay here, from the outstanding, personable staff to the comfortable rooms, the chic bar, and the majestic “dogs in military uniform” artwork sprinkled throughout!
Fun Sights Near Derry
Derry is a wonderful home base for exploring the north of Ireland and the Antrim Coast. The sights below are less than an hour and a half drive from the city center.
Dunfanaghy
The town of Dunfanaghy (a former fishing port) makes for a lovely day trip. You’ll want to stroll the main shopping strip and stop for lunch either before or after visiting two of the town’s most popular sites. We recommend Muck n Muffins on the main square for a local vibe.
If you didn’t visit the Irish Workhouse Centre in Galway (the gold standard of workhouse tours), the Workhouse in Dunfanaghy makes a great “runner-up“. Take the opportunity to learn more about the Irish famine and what day-to-day life looked like for the workhouse poor.
This cultural center relates the workhouse experience through the story of “Wee” Hannah Herrity. Hannah was one of only a handful of workhouse residents who eventually left the workhouse to live independently.
Lastly, Killahoey Beach is a huge strip of sand overlooking Sheephaven Bay. It’s renowned for its blue flag status, picturesque views, and bird-watching opportunities.
Mussenden Temple
This small circular temple, built in 1785, commands a beautiful position on the cliffs of Northern Ireland, facing the North Atlantic. The building was based on the Temple of Vesta in the Roman Forum, and its walls were once lined with a series of bookcases.
Dunluce Castle
There is not much to see inside Dunluce Castle, but the outer structure makes for a great photo op on your way to or from Bushmills. This castle dates back to the 13th century. Legend states that the castle’s kitchen, perched quite near the cliff face, fell off into the sea one day, and from that point forward, the owners refused to live there.
Bushmills Distillery
Even non-whiskey drinkers will enjoy the tour at Bushmills Distillery. Opened in 1608, Bushmills is the oldest distillery in the world. What’s more, they’re the only Irish distillery that still makes, matures, and bottles their whiskey on-site.
The Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway is arguably the most popular natural sight in Northern Ireland. While the basalt columns are the star, I highly recommend exploring the cliff walk above the columns as well. Advance tickets are recommended in high season.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
This precarious rope bridge perched 100 feet above the rough sea was first used by salmon fishermen over 250 years ago! Well, not THIS EXACT BRIDGE but you get the idea. Tremble your way across to tiny Carrickarede Island. On a clear day, you can see Scotland.
NOTE: The walk to get to the bridge is quite long and not handicapped accessible.
I hope you enjoyed this post on Derry/Londonderry and the surrounding area. We’ve only got one more stop left on our circle tour of Ireland, Belfast!
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving. If you need a few last-minute recipes, check out my Holiday Entertaining Planner where I share a few of our favorites.
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